The Covadonga Lakes are one of the most popular places to visit in the entire Picos de Europa National Park in Spain. The two alpine lakes of Lago Enol and Lago Ercina are found in the Asturias region in Spain’s first National Park. While the Lagos de Covadonga are delightful to visit any time of the year, the third lake, Lago El Bricial, is only possible to see in the springtime.
With increased popularity, some planning is required to visit the Covadonga Lakes. In an effort to conserve the area, the road to access the Lagos de Covadonga has been limited. The road is often closed to tourists, and the only way to reach the lakes is by bus or private taxi. This is also a safety issue to help limit accidents on the narrow, windy, and now busy road up to the alpine lakes.
I have visited the Covadonga Lakes twice, once in the off-season with a rental car and another time using the handy public transportation system. This guide gives tips on visiting the Covadonga Lakes as a day trip.
Why are the Covadonga Lakes so popular? Well, besides being picturesque, the area surrounding the lakes showcases viewpoints, attractions, and restaurants highlighting the typical cuisine of the Asturias region of Spain.
The Lagos de Covadoga is a hiker’s paradise and I’ll highlight three of the main hiking trails that start right from the Lagos de Covadonga. There’s one for every level of hiker.
Here’s how to make the most of a day trip to the Lagos de Covadonga in the Asturias region of the Picos de Europa National Park.
Table of Contents
How to Get to the Lagos de Covadonga
The Covadonga Lakes are one of the most popular places to see in the Picos de Europa. In fact, during the high season, the region highly regulates access to the pretty lakes.
As a conservation measure, the road from the Covadonga Sanctuary to the Lakes of Covadonga is closed to unauthorized travelers (including tourists). The official website that controls the traffic on the road CO-4 states regulated dates as follows for 2024:
- Easter week
- Every Weekend of April and May
- First Long Weekend in May
- Every Day from June 1 – September 30 (except July 25 and September 8)
- October 1 – 13, 19 & 20, 26 & 27
- All Saint’s Day Weekend
- November 30 – December 9
Near the Restaurante Merendero de Covadonga is where you will find the guarded traffic access point. It is monitored by workers for most of the day and by an electronic gate. The closure times are monitored 24 hours.
1 | By Car
When the road is open for tourists, you can drive from Cangas de Onís to Lagos de Covadonga. It’s a short distance, but the road to the Covadonga Lakes is an adventure in its own right. The winding road up to the parking twists and turns and offers incredible views.
The main parking lot for the lakes is referred to as the Buferrera and remember that parking spaces are limited.
Cangas de Onís to Lagos de Covadonga: 13 miles | 35 minutes
During thee closure times, it is mandatory to take a bus or taxi.
2 | Bus to Lagos de Covadonga
The buses run frequently between Cangas de Onís and the Basílica de Santa María la Real de Covadonga. Tickets for the Covadonga Sanctuary and destinations that aren’t the lakes can be bought at the station cafe. After the Covadonga Basilica, the road closure is enforced.
There four parking lots where you can catch the bus to the Lagos de Covadonga are:
- Cangas de Onís Bus Station (P1)
- El Bosque (P2)
- Muñigo (P3)
- El Repelao (P4)
The Cangas de Onís Bus Station has a helpful ticket window where you can purchase tickets. Be mindful that during the high season, bus tickets sell out super fast, so it’s best to purchase your tickets as soon as you arrive or even before you arrive.
The buses to the Covadonga Lakes are run by ALSA and can also be purchased from this official website.
The four main parking lots are accessible by car but require a parking fee. (typically between 2-3 Euros). Many of these parking lots fill up fast. At each parking lot is a ticket window, which may not always be open. Not all parking lots have departures year-round.
Lagos de Covadonga Bus Ticket Logistics
Tickets are purchased as a round-trip fare for 9€. It doesn’t matter if you start from the bus station or one of the parking lots, the fare is the same. You must book the ticket as a round-fare trip, so it’s best to purchase in person if planning on sleeping in one of the mountain huts.
Depending on the season, the bus schedule will vary. The first bus will always leave at 8:00, but then there are different departure times to and from the lakes throughout the year.
The ride from the Cangas de Onís Bus Station takes around 50 minutes to Lagos de Covadonga. The buses drop and pick up at the main parking lot, Lagos – Parking Buferrera. There is a bathroom here and during the high season a small stand with tourist information.
➜ Bus Tickets can be purchased directly from ALSA Bus Company or via this more localized and specific website run by ALSA
3 | Taxis to Lagos de Covadonga
There are smaller shuttle buses and private taxis run by the company Taxitur. Prices vary depending on what you wish to book, so it’s best to contact them here.
Subir a Los Lagos is another private taxi company that offers round-trip fares from Covadonga to the Lagos de Covadonga for 12€ a person.
Where Are the Best Places to Stay in Asturias to Access the Covadonga Lakes?
The Picos de Europa National Park stretches across three different regions in Spain: Castile & León, Asturias, and Cantabria. The Lagos de Covadonga are found in the Asturias region of the park.
With multiple transportation options to reach the Covadonga Lakes, the most popular place to base is Cangas de Onís. Another mountain village to stay in Asturias is Las Arenas de Cabrales.
Cangas de Onís
Most visitors plan to base in Cangas de Onís, a cute mountain village located in the Asturias region. The town has everything you need from ATMS, grocery stores, restaurants, and plenty of places to sleep. A bus station also connects the village to the nearby Covadonga Sanctuary and the Lakes.
Besides the practical means, Cangas de Onís has plenty of things to see from the Old Roman Bridge, a river walkway, and a handful of traditional Cider Bars (Sidras). Asturias produces 80% of all cider in Spain, with a far-off second being the Basque Country. Don’t miss stopping in a local specialty shop to sample and purchase items like dried beans, fresh cheeses, and of course, cider.
For all of these these reasons, most people will spend the night in Cangas de Onís before heading to the Covadonga Lakes the following day.
Popular Places to Sleep in Cangas de Onis
➜ Pension Reconquista offers simple rooms with lovely little balconies
➜ Hotel Santa Cruz is a popular option near the center of the village
➜ Hotel Los Lagos Nature is in the heart of Cangas de Onís
➜ Hotel Los Robles is a great budget-friendly option steps away from many great restaurant options
Las Arenas de Cabrales
Those with a car may wish to stay in a more authentic village a little farther away, like Las Arenas de Cabrales. The small mountain town is well connected to Poncebos, known for its many hiking routes, including the famous Ruta del Cares. It’s also possible to visit smaller villages like the isolated Bulnes village or the highest village in the Picos de Europa, Sotres.
Las Arenas de Cabrales is around a 40-minute drive to Covadonga. Be mindful that even with a car, it’s more than likely that you will be required to take a bus or shuttle to reach the Covadonga Lakes.
Popular Places to Sleep in Las Arenas de Cabrales
➜ Hotel Picos de Europa
➜ Hotel Villa de Cabrales
➜ Hotel Rural El Torrejon
What to See at the Covadonga Lakes Asturias
Lagos de Covadonga comprises two lovely alpine lakes: Enol Lake (Lago Enol) and Ercina Lake (Lago Ercina). Upon arrival, there are plenty of things to see and do around the Covadonga Lakes.
Find many families doing simple activities from picnicking to wandering the nearby trails, or simply watching the cows pass by.
Keep in mind, that it is not possible to swim in the Covadonga Lakes, as they are protected!
Centro de Visitantes Pedro Pidal
Pedro Pidal was a fascinating man and is one of the main reasons the Picos de Europa exists. He was ahead of his time in conservation and helped found and protect the Asturias region (Montaña de Covadonga) of the Picos de Europa National Park in 1918. His love for the mountains of this region inspired him to be the first documented person to climb the famous Naranjo de Bulnes in 1904 with a local shepherd.
Pedro Pidal was also a politician and won a medal in the Olympics (for pigeon shooting). The Visitor Center is named in his honor due to his work in conservation. The center also showcases the care of the land by local farmers and adaptation skills to produce local delicacies like cheese.
The Pedro Pidal Visitor Center is free to visit and is open daily from June to the end of September.
Mirador de Entrelagos
Mirador de Entrelagos is one of the most iconic viewpoints at Lagos de Covadonga. It translates to the viewpoint between the lakes. From here you can see grand views of both Lago Enol and Lago Ercina.
To reach the viewpoint you will have to climb up steps no matter which way you approach the viewpoint.
Buferrera Mines
Extremely close to the Lagos de Covdonga are the Buferrera Mines. There is a small section of trail that allows access next to the old mining facilities.
Be mindful that some trail sections are closed, but there is a main walking path with information boards and a sculpture of a miner.
Chapel of the Good Shepherd
Follow the trail past Enol Lake to the open pasture where a small hermitage chapel stands. This is the Chapel of the Good Shepherd and while small, the views with the Picos de Europa in the backdrop are memorable.
On my last visit, I saw mastiff dogs resting here while they watched after their cows.
Mirador del Rey
Continue on the gravel path and road where you pass by small shepherd huts. If you continue on the gravel road there will be a signboard for a quick turnoff to see the Mirador del Rey. This viewpoint has nice views of the mountains and not the lakes.
Mirador del Príncipe de Asturias
The Mirador del Príncipe de Asturias is a viewpoint near the Pedro Pidal Visitor Center. On a clear day, you’ll have incredible views of the mountains and meadows below. I quite enjoyed my foggy views as well.
Lagos de Covadonga Hiking Trails
There are three main hiking trails from the Lagos de Covadonga that make for great day hikes. In one day, it is impossible to complete all of these hikes. It’s best to choose only one and make sure your bus ticket aligns with the allocated hiking time.
All of the trails are officially marked with wooden signboards and colored blazes. There are even estimated times for each hiking trail.
After that, if you have time, wander through the mines, visit the viewpoints, or grab a drink or food from one of the restaurants.
Los Lagos | PR-PNPE-2
An enjoyable and family-friendly trail at Lagos de Covadonga is the casual stroll along the PR-PNPE- 2 Los Lagos. This trail follows along the main lakes of Enol and Ercina. In the spring, it might be possible to see El Bricial Lake.
This hiking trail is a loop trail. As the buses drop at the Buferrera car park, this is where most people start the trail. There are signboards and trail maps posted nearby.
If planning on hiking any of the other Covadonga Lakes trails you will walk on some section of the Los Lagos loop trail.
Walking this loop trail you can visit most of the highlights of the Lagos de Covadonga including the Pedro Pidal Visitor Centre, Buferrera Mines, and a short detour up to the Entrelagos viewpoint. After that, rejoin the trail down to Ercina Lake. From there follow the trail to the meadows that open to the Good Shepherd Hermitage. Follow the road to the far shores of Lake Enol where you loop back to the parking lot.
🥾 Los Lagos Trail | PR-PNPE-2 | Loop Trail: 3.9 miles (6.2 KM) | Difficulty: Easy | Duration: +/- 2.5 hours | Official Trail Information
Vega de Ario | PNPE-4
Those hikers looking for a moderate hike could hike from the Ercina Lake to the Ario Shelter. This is an out-and-back trail that highlights the lake, open pastures, and leads to one of the mountain huts in the Macizo Occidental (Western) Mountain Range in the Picos de Europa.
Vega de Ario sits at an altitude of 5,348 ft. (1,630 m). The mountain hut does sell food and beverages, but remember it’s a lot more expensive than in the villages.
It is possobiel to sleep at Vega de Ario. This is an optional stop for those completing the Anillo de Picos (Ring of Peaks) multi-day trek. Reservations are a must.
🥾 Vega de Ario Trail | PR-PNPE-4 | Out & Back Trail: 9.5 miles in total (15.2 KM) | Difficulty: Medium | Duration: +/- 6 hours | Official Trail Information
Mirador de Ordiales | PR-PNPE-5
For those looking for a more challenging but stunning path, follow the signage from the Buferrera car park to the Mirador de Ordiales. This is one of my favorite hiking trails in the Picos de Europa National Park. It is an out-and-back trail and requires the most time out of any of the day hikes that start from the lake.
This path follows past the Enol Lake and continues pass the Good Shepherd hermitage. From there you could stop at the Mirador del Rey, but there are better views coming.
The trail passes through a small section of forest and up to meadows, where you’ll see free-range horses, cows, and goats. Further up, I was able to spot fairly large herds of Chamois, antelope-like animals that live in these precious mountains.
The trail is marked with yellow and white blazes, and you’ll move from meadows to shepherd areas to the rocky paths of the limestone peaks. The high mountains seem so close.
After a while, you’ll approach the mountain hut of Vegarredonda. This hut sits at 4,790 ft (1,460 m) and is part of the Western Masstif. The views coming into the shelter will leave you breathless. Either have a snack or drink, but make sure to fill up on water from the fountain.
From the Vegarredonda shelter, it’s about a little over an hour through the high peaks to reach the viewpoint of Mirador de Ordiales. This spectacular viewpoint is where Pedro Pidal, the Marques of Villaviciosa, was requested to be buried. He wanted to immortalize this amazing view after he passed.
🥾 Buferrera Car Park to Mirador de Ordiales | PR-PNPE-5 | Out & Back Trail: 14.5 miles (23.3 KM) | Duration: +/- 6.5 Hours | Official Trail Information
Lagos de Covadonga Restaurants
There are two restaurants at Lagos de Covadonga. Remember, the food here will be a little more pricier than in the villages because food options are limited here.
Bar Restaurante Mª Rosa is one of the main restaurants that sits right below the two lake viewpoint. There is a restaurant serving typical Asturian cuisine and a snack bar. Those looking to grab a snack and beverage can head outside and enjoy views of Ercina Lake.
Alternatively, before the Bufferra car park is Merendero de los Lagos. This is another restaurant serving the cuisine of the region. Those dining here will enjoy views of Lake Enol.
What to Do After Visiting Lagos de Covadonga
After exploring the Lagos de Covadonga, you could stop at the Basílica de Santa María la Real de Covadonga. The Sanctuary is free to visit and there are a few points of interest from the Santa Cueva (Holy Cave), the signature pink Basilica of Covadonga, a crypt, hiking trails, a beautiful public garden, and a museum (for a fee).
There are a few cafes and restaurants onsite and nearby. It all depends on how much energy you have after spending the day at Lagos de Covadonga.
Covadonga Sanctuary | Find it here: Lugar Covadonga, 33589 Covadonga Asturias Spain | Free Admission, except the Museum | Hours: 8:00 – 20:00 with multiple daily masses | Official Website
Conclusion | How to Reach Lagos de Covadonga & What To Do There
In short, this is the complete guide on how to visit Lagos de Covadonga, a treasured gem in the Asturias region of the Picos de Europa National Park. To protect the area, the region has implemented strict visiting procedures including limited driving privileges. This guide goes over all the ways to reach Lagos de Covadonga from public transport to taxi options.
In addition, this guide includes what to see at Lagos de Covadonga, the three most popular hiking trails from the Covadonga Lakes, viewpoints, and restaurants in the area.
Even though the Covadonga Lakes have increased in popularity, I’ve thoroughly enjoyed both of my visits to these picturesque lakes in the Picos de Europa. Whether you wish to hike a strenuous trail, enjoy typical cuisine, or simply walk alongside cute livestock, the Lagos de Covadonga won’t disappoint.
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